Eating Cuy

The pictures are:

1. Cuy and fries

2. Me and Cuy

3. Cuy Head on a fork

4. More MP

5. Llamas waiting for a cab at the airport.

Here is something I wrote for another website about eating guinea pig. See the next post for more on the end of our South America trip.

It took seven cocktails to get there. Don’t get me wrong, I didn’t order seven, but I drank that many and it helped. To prepare for what I was about to eat I went to happy hour first and ordered a cocktail, but it happened to be 4 for 1 that hour. My girlfriend was with me, and I expected her to help me out with the 4 mojitos, but after they arrived she told me she wasn’t feeling well. So I had four, by myself. Then we went to the restaurant for the night’s challenge and I ordered another mojito, but this restaurant was currently doing three for one. So about halfway through the third (well seventh really) drink my meal arrived; head, feet, legs and all. It was what used to be a cute furry guinea pig, now roasted, splayed out and ready for my dining ……...pleasure?

I visited Peru for a few weeks with my girlfriend. We were on the typical Gringo trail around Peru, which includes The Nazca Lines, Colca Canyon, Lake Titicaca, Cuzco and of course Machu Picchu. It was our second to last night and we were in Augas Calientes, the small town that serves as a base for visiting the ruins of Machu Picchu. I had been putting it off for long enough and it was time to pick up knife and fork and just go for it. The seven cocktails helped drown out any ideas of cute cuddly pets. I did not have them as a kid but my girlfriend did and I had mice and hamsters. So they weren’t what I thought of when I think dinner.

It is served in several South American countries and is called Cuy. Supposedly they are called that because of the sound they make sounds a little like “kwee, kwee” which is how Cuy is pronounced. Their cute little cooing sound doesn’t make them more appetizing, but I pride myself on being adventurous in my travel eating. The dish goes back to before the Spaniards, and was a popular dish of the Inca’s. My brother always claims that “they” would not make it if it wasn’t good, and I had to/wanted to try it while I was in Peru. After all, they’ve been making it for quite some time now.

I even bargained for my meal. It was listed as 50 soles (about 15 USD) on the menu, but the guy out front said he would give it to me for 30. I even got the 3 for 1 drinks down a bit. I wonder if he is used to having to sell drinks to foreigners trying to get up the liquid courage to try to eat a pet. The dish is served all over Peru and it is often a question among travelers “have you eaten it yet?” I never actually saw a Peruvian eat it (although I did see a Bolivian with about 20 in a little pen in here home-close to the kitchen) and wonder if it is one of those dishes kept alive by the sheer novelty sake for tourists. Well I am a tourist, and I wanted to eat it.

You can order it two ways. You can have it delivered to you as just cut up meet, or it can be with all limbs and head attached spread out on your plate. I had to have it the second way, I needed a photo. My girlfriend would not eat any of it, still too fond of her childhood pets, and without a cocktail(s). I did (almost) force her into having one bite, but she does not like to admit now that she had a bite.

They are in fact tough eating. Not that the meat is so hard or chewy, rather, it’s hard to get any meat from it. I suppose not surprisingly by looking at them, but the meal is a wrestling match to try to get much eatable meat off the bones. I did get a little silly while eating (remember all the cocktails). I made my girlfriend take a picture of me holding its head on a fork, and the open mouth had a French fry in it. Yes, I did play with my food, even though my mother told me not to so many years ago.

So what does it taste like? Well you guessed it, chicken. A lot of people say rabbit, but I’m not sure I agree. I am much more familiar with chicken than rabbit, but still I would say chicken. If it was cut up served in a stew and you were told it was chicken, you would never know the difference.

It was an experience to have Guinea pig for dinner, that for sure. On our last day in Lima we bought a Peruvian cook book. Often when I get home I have a hankering for something I had eaten during my travels, and try to cook it up at home. Let’s just say that won’t be happening in this case. I will not be visiting any pet stores and stoking up the BBQ any time soon.

Ending the South America Saga

The pictures are:

1. Breakfast in Cuzco

2. Me and the locals at MP

3. Ollaytatambo

4. School kids in uniform

5. Just after the fog lifted early in the morning at MP

I started the tales of the south America journey a bit ago and almost got to the end when I hit the road again here in North America. I didn't want to leave it out or have it be finished in months so I will rap it up here.

Last I wrote about us being in Puno and visiting the Uros Islands on Lake Titicaca. At that point we had seen some amazing things, but the best was yet to come. We were on our way to Cuzco, The sacred valley, and Machu Picchu.

We took a early afternoon bus to Cuzco and after a beautiful drive arrived just after dark. We tried to stay with the brother of the people we stayed with in Arequipa (Marlon of Marlon's travels) but his place was full for the night, so he sent us to his neighbor's place.

http://www.marlons-travel.com/

We then went back to Marlon's place so he could help us book our trip to Machu Picchu. Originally I think we were going to go straight there, but Marlon talked us into adding a tour of the Sacred Valley on the way, and I'm glad he did. There is a lush green valley with various ruins and charming little towns, leading up to Machu Picchu and it is well worth the visit.

I got up early and went with Marlon to the train station to try to get tickets for later that night. The only way to reach Aguas Calientes (the small town at the base of MP) is by train or walking. We did not have time to walk via the famous Inca Trail, so we were after train tickets. Unfortunately they were sold out for the day, so we bought tickets to do the same the next day. We had wanted to arrive back in Cuzco with a day to spare before our flight to Lima, but had the spare day in the beginning instead. All it meant is that the morning we would return from MP we would go straight to the airport. I was a little nervous about missing the flight, but Marlon assured me it would be fine.

So we spent a leisurely day in Cuzco and absolutely loved it. We had breakfast in the main square and there was a parade of school children while we were there. about 1000 of them all in various uniforms lined up for the event. Cuzco was the capital of the Inca Empire and still has a lot of Inca ruins, along with some impressive Spanish architecture. Some of the Spanish buildings used some of the Inca walls as part of the construction. That is quite rare from what I have seen as usually the conquering society wants to totally destroy the other one before setting up shop. We had lunch in a small suburb up a hill with a great view and we had drinks that night with the Belgian couple we had met in Puno. Eva went to go see the Sun Temple while I had a nap. I did get to see it later, in Belgium on stage as part of the set for the musical "Kuifje en de Zonnetemple" or Tintin and the Sun Temple.

The next morning we took off for the tour of the sacred valley. Our first stop was Pisac a small market town in a stunning setting and some amazing hill top ruins near by. Next we had lunch along the way and then on to Ollaytatambo where we were to catch the train that night. We first had a tour of the ruins and then most of the tour group headed back to Cuzco, while we waited a few hours for the train. It was a cute little city with little streams of water flowing through out the cobblestone streets.

The train took less than two hours and we were in Aguas Calientes and at our hotel by 10:30, so we could get to sleep for the early day the next day. We awoke before the sun to get in line for the bus up the hill. It is the most expensive bus ride in all of Peru as it takes under 30 minutes, and only goes 8 km and cost 6 USD. Some people walk it, but Eva and I were not keen on a 8 km uphill pre dawn hike, so we paid the money.

Our whole package included a 2 hour guided tour of the ruins, and then we were free to explore on our own. In total we spent 8 hours there it was that phenomenal. I had always loved the photos of my grandparents trip there in the 60's and had wanted to go for a long time. It did not disappoint me. Around the ruins there were wild llamas and we were able to find some spots where there were no other people in site during the day.

In the late afternoon we were on our way to the hot springs, back in town and Eva tripped, cutting her foot open. I didn't think it was a good idea for her to soak in questionable south American hot pool water, so she just waited for me while I did. That night I had the Guinea pig dinner I already mentioned and we went to bed early again, for another early departure.

In the morning we caught the train back to Ollaytatambo, a cab (shared with a couple from French Guiana) the hour and a half back to Cuzco, and an airplane to Lima. At the airport in Cuzco we thought it was funny because when we pulled up there were two llamas just wandering around the taxi stand. Maybe they were waiting for a cab. We had a bit of time to kill so we went across the street from the airport and I had some soup with questionable body parts of a questionable animal.

Back in Lima we stayed at the same place we had in the beginning (Safe in Lima) for one night before our flight home. But our flight wasn't until 11 at night so we had a whole day in Lima.

http://www.safeinlima.com/

During that day we walked to the suburb of Miraflores and took a cab back and forth from the city center. We had heard that there was a building that was a replica of one in Brussles and wanted to see it. It took some searching, but eventually we found it. then it was back to the guesthouse to collect our bags and to the airport to fly to LA. Eva and I had different flights, but they left only a half hour apart. So that was it, our/my south America journey was over.

7 continents, check.

Vegas Baby! Vegas!

The Pictures are:

1. The Venetian

2. My frequent Trek America Home in Vegas

3. Cool Reflection

4. Gambling away

Well you guessed it, I'm in Las Vegas. It is appropriate I suppose to quote Homer Simpson, "I curse you Gamblor" the god of gambling. But I actually praise him this time as I am 80 dollars richer thanks to several casinos. It is day three of the tour and things are going fine. All nine passengers are on a six week tour that crosses the country twice. Another leader was with them for the first three weeks, on the northern route from east to west, and I am now with them for the southern route, heading back to New York. It is easy to have a group that already knows the drill.

The first morning I picked them up and drove them to Disneyland. After we set up camp, I took them to the theme park, and turned them loose. They had 12-14 hours of Mickey, probably enough for anyone in one dose. Next day we got up ad drove across the Mojave dessert to Vegas, and arrived here yesterday afternoon. We joined another group that night for a 2 hour, 20 person Limo ride/party in Vegas. It was lots of fun and as you may imagine I was a bit hung over today. Tomorrow we leave the cities behind for a while, heading through the amazing national parks of the south west.

Trek America

So I am back in the US. A Belgian Visa is going to take longer than hoped, but is still on the way.......I think. So in the mean time, I needed to earn some money, and I came back to lead tours for Trek America again. This is my 8th season with the company, and my third "last" season ever. It happens to lots of leaders.

So I leave tomorrow, on my first tour and as I said I will be posting on the BLOG a little less frequently, but will still try to do my best. My first tour is as follows:

Day

1. Disneyland
2. Vegas
3. Vegas
4. Zion
5. Lake Powell
6. Grand Canyon
7. Grand Canyon
8. Monument Valley
9. New Mexico
10. Carlsbad Caverns
11. Del Rio Texas
12. San Antonio
13. Louisiana
14. New Orleans
15. New Orleans
16. Alabama
17. Tenn
18. Virgina
19. DC
20. DC
21. NY


5000 miles in three weeks. After that its up to Eastern Canada, where I have never been. Then a tour across Canada to Seattle, and then we will see.

So stay tuned, I will have some photos up from the US as soon as I can.

Stay tuned

For those of you who read regularly (if that is anyone) bare with me. I am now back in the US for a few months. The visa paperwork for Belgium will take a while and in the mean time it is best if I earn some money by leading tours. The Blog wasn't really paying the bills, so I will be on the road for at least three tours. I will try to still put picture sand stories up (from the US and Canada) as often as possible, but getting Internet access on the road is sparse a times.

It wasn't easy to get here by the way, as my flight from Brussels was canceled, and I had to fly the next day. That cut my time to prepare for the upcoming trip down from 2 days (normally it is three) to a jet-lagged hour and a day.

As I said, stay tuned.

Back to Peru

The Pictures are:

1. Island of the Uros people

2. "Traditional" boat filled with coke bottles

3. Look how many people it can hold

4. See the cute rabbit

5. Me juggling in Puno-Nathan what do you think?

So as quick as we arrived in Bolivia it was time to leave. We only spent two nights there, and need to go back some day. On the way back Eva did not have to fight for butt space in a small vehicle as we took a direct bus. It stopped for border formalities on both sides and went all the way to Puno. It was a little more expensive than the regular mini vans and was only filled with "rich" foreigners. Incidentally it would have made an excellent score if you were into holding up buses.

About halfway into the journey a guy got on selling tours to the Uros Islands and hotels for the night. He cleaned up and got a lot of business including Eva and myself. It was two things we wanted anyway and the prices seemed good. So when we got to Puno, he put us in cabs (included) and 6 of us went to the same hotel. Two German guys and a Belgian couple accompanied us. We all discussed as to whether we would ever get that tour we paid for or if the guy would run off with our money. It was only 20 soles each (about 6 USD) so I wasn't too worried. But we paid 11 USD each total for hotel and tour and many people had to get their cut from that. The hotel, the cab driver, the boat owner, the tour guide, the mini van guy that picked us up for the tour and of course the salesman. Not much to go around really.

So we had a quick look around Puno and then back to our hotel to await the tour. The six of us waited outside our hotel, and eventually the mini van came. It took us to the docks and we got on a boat with about 30 other people who I think had been waiting a while (impatiently) for us to arrive. More than 75% of them were Israelis. There sure are a lot of them traveling in South America. Then we were off to go visit the Uros people.

From my understanding from our tour guide, the Uros people are a pre-Inca society that fled to the lake to avoid conflict with another local tribe. Instead of fighting for the land, they built themselves Islands out of reeds. Around 3000 descendants still live today with a few hundred maintaining the Island lifestyle. They also build boats out of reeds. They used to be made out of solid reeds, but now they use something else. Empty plastic coke bottles, so they are good for something. We visited two Islands and the families that live there. They showed us how they build their Islands and took us in a reed boat. On the reed boat over to the main Island (with the school) the boatman's little daughter sang us songs in 7-8 languages. A lot of people think that this excursion is "to touristy" and don't like the pressure of the families hawking their goods. But I think, of course it is why else would people invite mass tourism into their home, and I think a man-made Island is worth seeing. I remember our tour guide told us one thing about the lake. He said the Bolivians are fond of saying this about it "We get the Titi and they (the Peruvians) get the Caca."

We got back after dark and there were not enough mini vans for all of us. I guess the cut was not big enough for all those people I mentioned and a few drivers decided not to show. The six of us staying at the same hotel figured safety in numbers and walked back. It was only 20 minutes, a long walk for an American but certainly short for the Europeans. Eva and I had take away pizza in our room that night and fell asleep early. The next day we had the whole morning to walk around Puno before getting on a bus to Cuzco.

Isla Del Sol

The pictures are:

1.Eva and Ince ruins

2. Coke stop with a furry friend

3. Why is it so hard to resist taking photos of cute little kids and llamas?

4. One of the amazing views

The next morning we set out on an excursion onto the lake. There is a popular day trip from Copacabana, out to the Isla Del Sol. You can have a boat drop you off at one end of the Island and pick you up 5-6 hours later from the other. We joined about 40 others on the boat and headed out for the day.

The Island has a trail across its spine and has several small fishing and farming villages. All over the Island there are amazing views of the lake as well. We had very clear weather and could see for miles. Some directions you couldn't even see the other side of the lake. The Island is a very special place for the Incas and I can see why. The following is from the Lonely Planet website.

"The Island of the Sun is the legendary Inca creation site and is the birthplace of the sun in Inca mythology. It was here that the bearded white god Viracocha and the first Incas, Manco Capac and his sister-wife Mama Huaca (or Mama Ocllo), made their mystical appearances.
With a population of around 5,000, Isla del Sol is dotted with several villages, of which Yumani and Cha'llapampa are the largest. The island's Inca ruins include Pilko Kaina at the southern end and the Chincana complex in the north, which is the site of the sacred rock where the Inca creation legend began. At Cha'llapampa, there's a museum with gold artifacts from the underwater excavations near Isla Koa, north of Isla del Sol. The Museo Templo de Sol near Cha'lla features a collection of all things Aymara, one of Bolivia's largest indigenous groups."

We started the day in Cha'llapampa and then hiked our way up to the ruins. Not the most impressive set of Inca ruins we saw, but the setting was amazing. Then over the next 5 hours or so we hiked our way south. It was not easy hiking at that elevation and we had to stop frequently. I felt a painful feeling in my lungs I have never felt before. Fortunately (as I have mentioned many times, the view during our stops was never lacking). Along the walk we often bumped into others from the boat, all going at different paces.

Eventually we made it to the southern village and had a half hour to kill in a little restaurant before catching the slow boat back to the mainland. It was a long day and although we were sun burned (after all we were on the Isla Del Sol) and tired, we were fulfilled.

Bolivia

The pictures are:

1. Flight from Arequipa to Juliaca

2. Copacabana, Bolivia

3. Church in Copacabana

4. What kind of snack is that

5. More at the church

Should we go to another country today or not? Eva and I debated as to whether or not we should try to make Bolivia on the same day as leaving Arequipa. We also debated as to whether or not we should even go. We wanted to go, but weren't sure if we needed a visa or not. We had two guide books, one in Dutch and one in English. One of them told us Belgian's needed a visa and one said they did not. Also I had seen on-line that Americans would soon need one for Bolivia. Thank you George Bush. We'll see if my brother is reading these blogs, as he surely won't resist commenting on that if he is. Any way, we decided to go.

We had a morning flight from Arequipa to Juliaca which is about an hour from Lake Titicaca. Just out of the airport, we jumped into a combi skipping the town of Juliaca and heading straight for Puno. Puno is the main Peruvian city on the Lake. The lake is billed as the highest navigable lake in the world.

"Lake Titicaca is the world's highest lake navigable to large vessels, lying at 12500 feet (3810 m) above sea level in the Andes Mountains of South America"

In Puno we got in another combi to the Bolivian border. It was about a two hour ride, and Eva had to fight most of the way for room for both of her butt cheeks. There was a large woman seated next to her in a very crowded mini van, and they had a battle of the butts for well over an hour. Eva was out gunned in the butt department and lost the war. Eventually we made it to the border town and another squabble ensued. The driver wanted to take us to the border (another 2 km) for another 1 sole each (60 cents total). But so did they local cab drivers, and they proceeded to fight over us. I felt so popular. In the end we went with the original guy and were at the border in a few minutes.

On the Peru side we had to get our passports stamped for exit, and then some drug cops called us into the office. They searched my bag and then wanted to search Eva's stuff with me out of the room. That made me a little nervous, not for her safety but that one of them may have sticky fingers, but it turned out fine. There was a VERY long line of Israelis at the Bolivian side but fortunately we soon realized that was to get out of Bolivia, and we were headed in. There were no visas needed for either of us.

We got in another Mini Van and 20 minutes later we were in the lovely Copacabana, Bolivia's main town on the lake. We thought Peru was cheap, but we quickly realized how much cheaper Bolivia is. We got settled into our hotel (that had a great lake view) had some lunch and wandered around town. We went to a nice Mexican restaurant for dinner, and really splashed out. I think our bill was under 10 USD for two. We felt we had done enough traveling for the day, and were glad to not be moving at least for the moment. More about our two days in Bolivia to come.

Colca Canyon Trip

Photos form our Colca Canyon trip. See the story in the next pot.

The Pictures Are:

1. Me bird watching

2. Eva and I at the Canyon

3. Ditto

4. A condor

5. Back in Arequipa, a dried frog in a market for.........eating I guess.

The second deepest canyon

The Picture are:

1. The sugar eating bandit

2. My own motorcycle diaries at 5000 meters

3. Aren't they cute.

4. The Canyon

5. Locals dancing, much better than I could.

So where was I on the Peru tales? While Eva and I were in Arequipa we took an over night excursion to Colca Canyon. Colca Canyon is the second deepest canyon in the world. It is over 3400 meters deep. So where is the deepest, anybody know? I mean do you know without the Internet? It is a very common excursion to take from Arequipa and Eva and I had the added bonus of having it be our birthday trip. Eva's is the day before mine so we spent our birthdays visiting the canyon.

We got up very early and joined about 25 others for the trip to Chivay, the base for exploring the canyon. Along the way we saw lots of llamas. We also saw vicunas, alpacas and one guanaco, all part of the same family of camelids. At one rest stop, while we were waiting for tea, an Alpaca burst into the restaurant. He knew what he was doing and went straight for a sugar bowl on a table. He got a few mouth fulls of sugar before the waitress could shue him out. On the drive we also passed a point that was just under 5000 meters (15,000) feet, which is the highest I have ever been. Insert your own jokes there.

When we go to Chivay we had lunch and then checked into our hotel. We had a little free time in town, then we all went to a hot springs near town. It was nice to have a soak even though the pool was packed with tourists. After the soak we went to a group dinner that included a show of indigenous dancing and music. They had us participate in the dancing and because Eva and I were sitting on the end, we did the most participating. I did not put any pictures of that, because well, its not pretty. My dancing at low altitudes is not great, and when I am gasping for air it is much worse. Some how I managed to surprise Eva with having them bring a birthday banana pancake with candles. Ironically that was the same food she threw up on the Nazca flight.

The next day we were again up very early because we still had a long drive to the best view point of the canyon. There are lots of condors at the canyon, and they generally soar around a certain cliff at 9 in the morning. We had to make it there for 9 and still drive all the way back to Arequipa, so an early start. The condors were amazing birds with wing spans over 9 feet. They were really great to see, but to me did not compare to the beauty of the canyon over which they soared.

There was a lot of driving and some early starts on our overnight excursion. It was not a restful birthday for either of us. But we were glad to spend it together, and in such a wonderful place. The trip to the Canyon should not be missed on any Peru trip. It seems that I keep saying that about our Peru visit, but we really didn't go to a place we didn't enjoy.

More parties and visitors

Instead of having a relaxing rest of the weekend, Eva and I decided to socialize some more. We arrived home form the wedding in the Netherlands and the speeding in Germany with an hour an a half before going to her Aunt (Carine) and Uncle's (Yves) 30th anniversary party. It was in a small town named Vivenkapelle about 10 minutes form Brugge.

There where about 30 people there total and lots and lots of food. In fact it was the second night in a row that Eva and had and all you can eat dessert buffet with a chocolate fondue fountain. We ate a lot for the second night in a row and lucky for me Eva drove home for the second night in a row.

The next day we picked up Joe Park (who is in Europe for 6 days for the wedding in The Netherlands) in Antwerp and the three of us drove to Oudenaarde for a BBQ. Eva's sister and brother in law live there and we had a meat party. Lots and lots of meat, which topped off a wonderful weekend of eating, drinking, friends and family

The Netherlands.......Again

The pictures are:

1. Mano with Mickey, Minne and the rings

2. The newly weds

3. Jim Krier, Chris Parker, Me and Joe Park

4. Bratwurst in Germany

5. Eva eating ice cream in Leuven.

It was the weekend, so Eva and I took off again. This time we had a much more specific destination in mind though, Baarlo, The Netherlands. My friend Chris Parker, who I know for over 20 years was getting married there. Chris has been living in The Netherlands for 6 or 7 years and this weekend got married to Melanie who is of course Dutch.

There were friends that came from England, The Netherlands, America, Belgium (Eva and I) and Australia for the wedding. It was great to see some friends I haven't seen in too long. Jim Krier and Joe Park, also friends from High school. There were others there that I have known for a long time, Jim's wife Susie, Jim's parents and brother (Mark, Mary and John), and Chris's father and brother (George and Mike).

There are two things Chris and/or Melanie are very interested in (or some might say obsessed) and those are Mano (their dog) and Mickey (the mouse). For a long time Chris has loved all things Disneyland, he has even been to all five of them. Did you know there were five? There were more Disney (well Mickey really) images at the party and ceremony than I can remember. Also Mano came in, with a Mickey and Mini Minnie pillow tied to his collar, rings attached. It was a nice day that blended the traditions of the two countries together very smoothly.

The next day we went back to the hotel to meet all my friends for breakfast. Most people had stayed there, but Eva and I stayed 10 km away for a third the price. It was nice to see them all again in the morning, but as quick as it all started it was over. Eva and I hit the road back to Belgium . As we were only 15 km away from Germany, we thought we would pop over. We spent about and hour in the country, during which we had enough time for some Bratwurst (of course) and driving 180 km and hour (why not) on the Autobahn. Also on the way back we stopped in a very nice University town, Leuven and walked around for a few hours. I think next weekend, Eva and I will not go to another country, we may stay in this one.

The White City

The picture are:

1. Rocoto Relleno

2. El Misti

3. Cute little girl that lived where we were staying

4. The main square

5. The monastery

So our night bus got us to Arequipa around 7 or so in the morning. It was filled with backpackers, as I said it seems to be there preferred method of travel in South America. I don't like traveling at night though, and it was the only one we took. The reasons I don't like it are:

1. I arrive exhausted (I don't sleep well on them)and sure you save on accommodation, but the next day is almost a wash.

2. I don't think it is as safe.

3. I want to be able to see the country as it goes by.

But Arequipa was a wonderful city, and even though our first day we saw it through tired eyes we ended up staying three nights there and loving it. It is said to be the nations second most important city, and lies in the south of the country. It has a few volcanoes looking down onto its streets, most prominently El Misti, which is snow capped and currently inactive. Many of the buildings are constructed with sillar, a white volcanic rock, and the city gets the nickname "The White City"

We did take an overnight excursion away to Colca Canyon while we were there, but I'll get to that next. While in Arequipa we ate and saw the sites. There is a monastery in town that is like a small city within the city. It is called Santa Catalina and is of 400 years old. While one thinks of a monastery being an empty place for women praying and living in poverty, this was not the case here. It was quite lavish (for a monastery) and supposedly lots of the nuns were from wealthy families, had servants, and music and lavish furnishings. It was more or less the MTV Spring Break Beach house of monasteries.

We also while in Arequipa went out with some friends that we had met along the way. Some from the overnight bus, and then there was Jed from the plane ride in Nazca. Also I had my birthday there and we had dinner with Ben Koss, a tour leader for Trek America that we randomly bumped into. We had our favorite meal from the trip here, Rocoto Relleno, a spicy stuffed pepper dish.

We stayed with at a place that had a great roof terrace and volcano views. Also there was a travel agency on the roof, and that was run by a very nice family that was a lot of help to us. We actually booked our Colca Canyon tour with them and ended up staying with their brother in Cuzco. I highly recommend this family (to stay with and book your tours), check them out at

http://www.marlons-travel.com/index.html

Next I'll tell you about our one trip away from Arequipa to Colca Canyon, the second deepest in the world.

The Lines

The pictures are:

1. If you look close you can see the space man

2. White lines

3. Vision dreams of passion going through my mind-oh different white lines

4. Eva recovering from the flight

5. The spider in in statue form

I've been doing so many things in this part of the world in the last week or so, I had to take a break from my South America stories. Yesterday however was relatively uneventful though so it's back to Peru.

I left off in the desert oasis of Hucachina. Eva and I stayed there only one night and then we took a bus the next day a few hours farther south to Nazca. Nazca is famous because of the "lines" of the same name. There are many theories about the lines and why they are there. Some of them are:

1. Pictures drawn in homage to the gods

2. Directions for alien landing sites

3. Indications as to where to find water

4. Astrological representations

The lines were not "discovered" until the first half of the 1900's when a plane flew over it. Often when we say things were "discovered" in reality the local people have known about them for years. Not in this case though, as they don't look like much from the ground, and it needed the invention of the plane to be re-discovered. The lines are thought to be over 2000 years old and again their purpose will never really be known.

Some of them are just straight (some are over 6 miles long) lines and some depict images like a monkey, a condor or a "spaceman." They are constructed by simply moving the darker surface rocks to one side, exposing the lighter silt underneath. It barely ever rains there and that is how they are able to stay for so many years.

We couldn't really go there and not see it, so we took a 35 minute flight over the lines, that cost about 50 USD each. The plane was a four seater that held us, and Aussie named Jed and the pilot. Eva made it about 3 minutes into the 35 minute flight before she started throwing up. She proceeded to do so for the next 32 and mostly only saw the lines through watery, miserable eyes. She can laugh about it now by the way. The pilot spoke English, but not perfectly. When we were turning he would say to Eva "lady close your eyes" but sometimes he would mix open your eyes and close your eyes, causing Eva to open up during a tight turn, not helping the situation.

I actually felt a bit nauseous as well. So the experience was..............good? Well, it was something we wanted to do, and now we have seen it. We decided to take our only night bus of the trip from Nazca, heading to Arequipa. But we had about 10 hours in Nazca to kill. Before the flight we were thinking to go see a bone graveyard, but afterwards, Eva needed some chill time to feel better, and we really just hung out in Nazca. We did also go to a lecture about the lines in the evening, and then headed to the bus station around 10:30 to await our night bus.